Emergencies during the holidays

With the craziness of the holidays the chances for disaster rise. We're all so busy and we have so much we're trying to get accomplished that we often don't pay proper attention to our pets.

Do you have a plan of action in case of an emergency? Someone to call who would be able to help you in a pinch to get your pet to the veterinarian? Can you get to your vet's office while under stress? How about the emergency vet?

Do you have a GPS system in your car? If so program the following emergency vets into your "Favorites" and if not then keep a card in your glove compartment so you don't have to stop and check where you're going before you load up your sick or injured pet.

NW Veterinary Specialists

16756 SE 82nd Dr.

Clackamas, OR 97015

(503) 656-3999

www.northwestvetspecialists.com

Dove Lewis

1945 NW Pettygrove

Portland, OR 97209

(503) 228-7281

www.dovelewis.org

* Please note - Dove Lewis has closed their Southeast location!

Emergency Veterinary Clinic of Tualatin

19314 SW Mohawk Ct.

Tualatin, OR 97062

(503) 691-7922

www.evcot.com

St. Francis 24 Hour Animal Hospital

12010 NE 65th St.

Vancouver, WA 98682

(360) 253-5446

www.stfrancis24hr.com

If the weather is an obstacle to getting your pet to see a veterinarian there is a veterinary ambulance.

Northwest Pet Express

P.O. Box 3078

Clackamas, OR 97015

(503) 260-0368

www.nwpetexpress.com

Stay warm and dry this winter but be prepared in case the worst should happen!

Safety during the holidays

The holidays are practically upon us and it's important, during this hectic season, to be especially aware of what our pets are doing. There are additional hazards that are compounded by the hustle and bustle of the season. Here are some things to be aware of:

1. Be aware of plant toxicity! Seasonal favorites such as poinsettias, mistletoe and lilies are poisonous. If you have them in your home consider making them part of a table centerpiece to keep them out of easy reach.

2. With the drop in temperature people are topping off the antifreeze in their cars. A strong base, antifreeze is not only deadly to animals but it has a sweet taste. Consumption of even a small amount can lead to kidney and liver damage and could result in death. Snow globes often contain antifreeze so if one breaks clean it up immediately and dilute the spill between moping it up.

3. Cords for festive lights can also be a hazard. Make sure that they are out of the way so that they can't be tripped on and are not an enticing addition in the home to chew.

4. Celebrating Christmas with a tree? The water in the base will quickly become stagnant and may contain harmful bacteria. Some types of artificial snow and flocking are toxic, check the labels carefully before making your purchase.

5. During this time of year we like to surround ourselves with friends and family. If you are having people over make sure everyone is aware that your pets are now allowed outside. Night comes quickly and you don't want to be out searching for your lost dog when you should be enjoying your party. If you pets are likely to become stressed when you have company it may be best to put them in a separate part of the house for their own comfort and for your peace-of-mind.

6. Don't forget to set aside time for your pets. The holidays can be hectic and stressful for them as well. If you show them you love them it might just help to reduce stress for both of you :)

We hope your holidays are safe, warm and wonderful!

Happy Halloween!

With Halloween here it is important to take some safety precautions.

1. Keep candy in a secure place. Chocolate can cause irregular heartbeats, kidney failure and death. Raisins can cause kidney failure as well and should be kept out of reach. Macadamian nuts are also toxic although what component is toxic has not yet been identified. Sugar-free sweeteners are known to cause liver failure.

2. If you plan on giving out candy it's best to leave your dog in another part of the house. With the door opening and closing constantly the chance of escape increases.

3. Make sure that collars are snug and that all identification contains your current information.

4. Walks should be completed before it gets too late and trick-or-treaters are on the street. Even the most calm and stable dogs can be frightened of costumes and all the activities.

5. Dogs should be kept indoors, especially greyhounds, as not only are they poorly adapted to cope with the elements but they should be kept away from all the Halloween activities. Well-meaning children may offer then a treat not knowing that it is toxic while others may taunt them. Either way, with all the craziness of the holiday, it's best to keep them safe and quiet.

Halloween can be a lot of fun and even more so when you know that your dogs are safe and happy!

Back to school, part 4

And we return to the topic of separation anxiety and with a reminder, it is a minority of dogs that actually have separation anxiety. What looks like anxious behavior may simply be a lack of training or boredom; this makes it essential to enlist help if you believe your dog is suffering from separation anxiety. There are three calls you need to make, the first is to your adoption group, the second is to your vet and the third is to a behaviorist. You should be working with all three, your adoption group can provide you with support, your vet with the name of a behaviorist and the behaviorist with a plan of action.

Today's post will concern how to treat separation anxiety. For further reading I highly recommend Patricia McConnell's book "I'll Be Home Soon," her framework is what I am utilizing for treatment and her writing is very accessible.

Before we start examining treatment I want to reinforce what should be gospel; NEVER correct a dog after the fact. If your dog does something undesirable and you don't catch them in the act they don't associate the correction with the undesirable action, instead they will associate the correction with the action that they were engaged in at that moment. This means when you come home to a mess and your dog is overjoyed to see you if you correct them you are telling them that their excitement and their greeting is unacceptable. Do you really want them to think that your return is something to be feared or avoided, that they shouldn't be happy to see you when you get home? Remeber, a dog with anxiey cannot help themselves and correcting them for something they may have done hours ago will not help them cope, in fact it may make things worse.

As previously discussed, dramatic displays when you are leaving or coming home should be avoided, it gives your dog the wrong message. Obviously that hasn't been effective in helping to prevent separation anxiety but it is important to keep up with it even though alone it isn't effective it is part of teaching your dog to cope with your absence. The first step you need to take is to observe your dog while going through your morning routine. Refer back to the list of behaviors commonly associated with an anxious dog and keep track of what you are doing when the first signs of their distress are detectable. Common actions are putting on shoes, picking up keys, turning off the television, picking up a coat, grabbing your briefcase, but sometimes they may be smaller actions, dogs are masters of association and it may be small unconscious behaviors that are their queues that you intend to leave. By this time your dog knows your pre-departure routine and is likely near the peak of their distress before you leave the house so it shouldn't be too difficult to pick out the major actions to start with and continue watching them even as you have moved on to the subsequent parts of the treatment.

The next step is to take one action that is part of your dog's stress-escalation routine and work on disassociating it from your departure. For example, if your dog starts to get upset when you put your shoes on then throughout the day you should put on your work shoes but do the unexpected; sit down and read a book for half an hour, fold a load of laundry, dust, anything but leave the house. There is one caveat to the disassociation process, you need to plan it well ahead of any planned departure. If you plan on leaving within an hour best not to work on desensitizing your dog now, it may just trigger their anxiety earlier to your leaving the house.

Be patient, the process of disassociating certain actions from your leaving, and the stress that results, can take a while. Working on one trigger at a time then combining multiple triggers may take a while but at the end of the process you should have a dog that will allow you to leave without becoming unduly upset. The next step is to leave your dog in such a way that they don't become stressed (this may be done in conjunction with the trigger conditioning). The root of the problem is that your dog is upset when you leave so you have to find a way that they don't feel so isolated. This may mean finding a friend to leave your dog with, using a pet-sitter, or going to doggy daycare. These may be the best solutions because there are other people to observe their behavior and report to you. Alternatively you can try taking your dog with you, leaving them in another part of the house that you use frequently (so it feels familiar) as a "going away space," or borrow a dog they know to see if the presence of a second dog helps. The last suggest comes with a big warning, anxious dogs are inherently upset so you need to find a way to leave the dogs together in such a way that they are safe. That might mean crating them side-by-side or using a baby gate to keep them physically apart but able to see each other.

Separation anxiety varies in intensity in every dog. Most are affected relatively mildly and only a minority are as challenging as my boy, Boo. Teaching an anxious dog to copy with your absence is often a trial-and-error exercise. Some dogs do much better with a canine companion and for others it makes no difference. For a small number of dogs only you will do so leaving them with a friend might make them less anxious but still upset. The last resort should be medication. For those dogs who pose a risk to themselves it is an essential part of the counter-conditioning process and almost all can be weened off of chemical aids with time. It is important that you speak with a veterinarian and a behaviorist if you believe that medicinal treatment is necessary.

I know it sounds like a long process and for some dogs it can be while for others a couple weeks of work and they improve significantly. Don't let the risk of separation anxiety keep you from bringing any dog into your life, it is not a common problem but now that you are aware of what to look for and have some idea how to treat it you should be prepared to make a start if your new buddy shows signs of anxiety.

Boo, my anxious boy, is an absolute delight. Some days I had to remind myself that his behavior was born of his extreme attachment to me and how could I be upset with a dog that loved me too much? The hardest part of having a pet with separation anxiety is that every day when you leave their whole world falls apart and they are desperate to see you again. Boo is still my shadow, he's eager to please and because we worked through his anxiety in partnership we have a stronger bond than I did with my normal dogs. As a result of Boo I took another project dog, a spook, and I am getting ready to welcome yet another project dog. The more they make you work the more they love you for it because they can't help that they're easily upset but in the end they trust you more and the bond between you and your dog goes far beyond what most people with know with their pets.

So as your schedule changes with autumn approaching you are now prepared in case you find your dog struggling with a new schedule!

Back to school, part 3

Today's installment about separation anxiety is going to focus on prevention but before we delve into the heart of the matter I wanted to revisit, briefly, my experience with Boo. It hasn't been twelve hours since the last posting and I have had a number of emails from friends and adopters who said they had no idea he has such an extreme reaction to being left. After about six months of working with him in conjunction with my veterinarian Boo improved remarkably. Today he watches me leave but doesn't pace, drool or vocalize, instead he lays down like most dogs would. He does get overly excited when I come home but he is not destructive and he is totally reliable in the house. Within six months of working with him Boo's symptoms were greatly alleviated and within a year he was essentially normal. He still gets upset if he is in a new environment and I leave him, like when his Auntie Jill babysits when I go out of town, but he settles down within an hour and enjoys himself while I am gone.

There are a number of things you can do that will help to prevent separation anxiety. Many of these suggestions will also help with dogs that have separation anxiety and they are all good habits to develop. First, when you bring your dog into a new environment, be it coming home for the first time, moving or visiting a friend, it is important to allow them time to explore and familiarize themselves with their surroundings. If you permit your dog some level of independence then they will rely on you less for comfort. This is one of the reasons why new owners are discouraged from trying to do too much with their dogs too soon. They should be permitted time to adjust to their new environment and you should be focusing on helping them ease the transition. Just because you act passively doesn't mean it isn't helping and maintaining a home life where you are not actively engaged all the time is essential to a healthy and well adjusted dog.

Second, keep your goodbyes and hellos low-key but affectionate. In a dog prone to anxiety highly emotional displays before leaving and upon returning may get them worked up as well. As much as you miss your dog going to work should not be as dramatic as a loved one being sent on military deployment. You will be home tonight, you will have food on the table, you will spend quality time with your dog walking them or playing a game. Before I leave my dogs I get all of the things I will need together and right before I walk out the door they get a quick scritch behind the ears and I tell them "Be good, I'll be back soon." Not only does this prevent them from getting excited before I leave but it is a queue that lets them know that today is like any other day, I am going to work, I will be home and we will continue our normal routine upon my return.

When I get home from I walk through the door, greet my dogs with a simple "Hi boys!," set down my things (sometimes groceries as well) and grab the leashes for a walk. As much as it is a relief to be home and as exciting as it is to see the dogs I don't feed their excitement with my own, instead I am calm and affectionate and their energy is channeled into a walk. Even if the walk is short by the time we get home the dogs return to their beds and I take care of getting changed, putting away groceries and preparing dinner. Ultimately, this is all to say that dogs are highly intuitive and if you are upset your dog is likely to pick up on that emotion, so calm loving departures and arrivals help dogs to feel safe and secure.

Third, set boundaries. It is essential that you are seen by your dog as the pack leader. Good things come from you; affection, treats, attention are all yours to give or to withhold. That's not to say that you should love your dog less but instead that they should get the things they want when you choose to give them, not when they make demands. Therefore behaviors such as begging, barking, whiing, pawing, and invasion of your space should not be rewarded. The last thing you want is an entitled dog making demands of you after a long day working so you can buy them designer beds, fancy collars, organic and grain free foods and the best treats. A dog that learns to be polite and understands that you give to them on your terms is less likely to have bouts of anxiety brought on by frustration.

All of these suggestions are designed to help create a sane level of independence in your dog. While they rely on you for their material needs they should not rely on you emotionally to the point of panic when you leave, allow your dog some freedom to explore while keeping an eye on them when introduced to a new place. Calm affection around comings and goings help them to know what to expect, especially when you slowly increase the time you are gone so that it isn't a complete shock to them when you're gone for hours. Setting boundaries reinforces that you are the alpha and that they cannot make demands but they may be rewarded for behaving how you expect. These are some of the most simple ways to prevent an over-attachment that may lead to separation anxiety but if you believe your dog may be suffering from separation anxiety these tips should be taken and implements only with the assistence of your veterinarian.

Back to school, part 2

The focus of this series is separation anxiety. Before addressing how to recognize, prevent, cope and treat separation anxiety it is important to remember that I, the author of this blog posting, am not an animal behaviorist. If you believe your dog has separation anxiety this series should help your recognize it and give you tips for treating, mollifying, and coping with it but you should consult your veterinarian for further assistence.

Separation anxiety is an evolutionary adaptation that encourages young animals to stay close to their social group for protection and care during development into adulthood. Most dogs will grow out of their need for the constant reassurance of their social group but some do not. Dogs may develop separation anxiety as the result of changes in their home environment such as moving, changes in schedule or routine, and alterations in the household composition (Burns). The longer the lifestyle disruption continues the greater the complexity of the dog's anxiety becomes making it essential to address the problem as soon as it is recognized (Flannigan, 2001).

All this leads to the question "How do I recognize separation anxiety?" Separation anxiety is akin to a panic attack in a person and often leads to frantic behavior. You dog misses you so much, is so frightened that they typically exhibit some of the following behaviors:

* Agitation while you prepare to leave that continues after you are gone (pacing and whining are typical examples)

* Panting and drooling

* Trembing

* Continuous barking or howling

* Dialated pupils

* House soiling

* Destructive chewing or digging (most frequently around doors or windows)

* An intense or exaggerated greeting, often frantic in nature

* Escape attempts in which they have been or are likely to injure themselves

* Self mutilation (usually from excessive licking or chewing)

* Depression

One study found that 72% of dogs with separtion anxiety displayed destructive behavior, 62% barked or howled to excess and 28% soiled the home (Flannigan, 2001). In most cases the dog's anxiety builds to a peak within thirty minutes of being left and may decrease with time but outside stimulus may trigger another escalation.

This is not to say that all dogs who are destructive, who vocalize or who have soil the house have anxiety. In most cases these dogs are merely misbehaving. Most of the damage a dog does to your home is born boredom; chewing on the legs of the coffee table is fun and if you aren't around to say it isn't allow then it must be just fine to taste that aged maple flavor. Furthermore, vocalization can be caused by a variety of stimuli such as squirrels, people passing, other dogs barking or any number of causes outside of anxiety. There are a number of potential causes for undesirable behavior and separation anxiety is not often the culprit.

Let me finish this description of separation anxiety with my own experience. One of my greyhounds is a posterchild for anxiety. He joined my life in late November and withing a couple of months I moved to a new house with a bigger yard thinking that he and my other two hounds would enjoy the space. I only had a little time with the dogs in the new space before I had to start a new job. All of my dogs are crated trained, I believe it is a fantastic tool and that, when employed properly, the crate becomes a place of security. Unfortunately, that was not the case with Boo.

As I got ready for work Boo became restless, he could not settle down in one spot and would follow me so closely that he was often touching me. When I crated the other two he would panic and I would have to walk him to his crate. As soon as the door closed he would begin to howl and by the time got home from work there would he spittle surrounding his crate. My new job was just shy of fulltime and on the days when I worked more than four hours Boo would have had terrible stress diarrhea and often I would spend over an hour scubbing the walls, the floor, the crate, shampooing the carpet, washing the bedding and bathing Boo before I could even get changed. As if that wasn't enough, Boo would shed his bedding and chew on the walls of his wire crate until gums bled and one had to be disposed because the wiring was bent and there were sharp gouges in the metal.

Ultimately I decided to leave him out of his crate because he was less likely to hurt himself and it was easier to clean up diarrhea that was only on the floor, not on the walls, the bedding and Boo himself. Once freed from his crate I muzzled Boo so he wasn't able to chew on anything but he did dig a hole in the carpeting by the front door and scratched the door and door frame where they met. This all took place beginning in 2003 and I am happy to say that after working with him for years I can safely leave the house for about four and a half hours without incident. It has taken a lot of time and patience but Boo still thinks the sun rises and sets because of me and I adore him completely. It has been a long road wrought with frustration but it has been totally worth it. Boo's separation anxiety was at the more extreme end of the spectrum and he still suffers from it today but we have both learned how to live with it and it has decreased in intensity but will never be completely gone.

Burns, Jessica "Canine Separation Anxiety and the Correlation and Impact to Shelters and Relenquishment"

Flannigan, G. & Nicholas, D. H. "Risk Factors and Behaviors Associated with Separation Anxiety in Dogs." JAVMA. 2001. Vol 219, pp. 460-466.

Back to school, part 1

With school starting or just around the corner you've got new clothes for the kids, school supplies and fall sports or activities lined up but have you thought about getting your hound ready for the new fall schedule?

If the kids have been home most of the summer, you've taken time off and had a great vacation. Maybe your summer schedule is going by the wayside but for many of us fall ushers in another change in lifestyle. This can be a tough time for your dog, especially if they are a recent addition and you haven't had to leave them for an entire work or school day before.

Over the next week we're going to be giving you the benefit of our experience to help ease your dog into a new fall routine. Many of these tips are also helpful in trasitioning a new dog into your household. The underriding theme is the prevention of separation anxiety; forty percent of dogs referred to behaviorists are diagnosed with this condition (Overall & Dunham, 2001).

Overall, K. L., Dunham, A. E., & Frank, D. "Frequency of Nonspecific Clinical Signs in Dogs with Separation Anxiety, Thunderstorm Phobia, and Noise Phobia, Alone or in Combination." JAVMA. 2001. Vol 219, pp. 467-473.

It's heating up!

With temperatures soaring we all need to be extra conscientious of our pets. Unlike us, dogs do not sweat, they pant to reduce their internal temperature but it is not nearly as efficient a cooling system as we possess. That make it even more essential that we take precautions to protect our pets when the temperatures rise. A rise in your dog's temperature of just five degrees above normal can result in nerve damage, heart problems, organ failure and death. Here are some simple precautions you can take to make the heat less oppressive for your hound.

1. Never leave your dog in the car in warm weather. Even in the shade on mild days the temperature in your care can easily reach ten to twenty degrees above the ambient temperature. What's more, cracking the windows has little effect. To make matters worse, as the car heats up dogs are likely to panic when causes them to aggitated and restless when increase their metabolism and causes them to pant thereby compounding the perceived heat. During this time of year just leave your dogs at home unless the car ride is all about them (i.e. a trip to the vet).

2. Keep clean fresh water available at all times. It is important for your dog to keep hydrated, especially during these hot spells.

3. Confine the most vigerous exercise to the early mornings and late evenings when the temperatures are lower. Dogs can suffer from heatstroke if they over-exert themselves during the hottest parts of the day. With this insufferable heat it is best to close your dog doors while you are gone so that there is no unsupervise place during the hottest hours of the day. It's better to come home to a puddle than to a dog that has collapsed from the heat.

4. Be aware that the sidewalks and asphalt may be very hot. Although their pads offer some protection it isn't the same as that offered by your Nikes so if you have to be out on the sidewalk plan your walk on a shady route and encourage your dogs to walk on the grass.

5. Your dog can get sunburns too! White and black dogs are especially susceptible and you may not even know they're burned until you give them a hug and they yelp of scream. Do not use sunscreens (or insect repellants) made for humans which may cause neurological problems; there are specially formulated sunscreens for dogs that are fragrance free, non-staining and hypoallergenic. While I have no experience with them to two brands that seem to predominate are made by Doggles and by Epi-Pet.

6. Update your dog's vaccinations and apply flea control. Illnesses like parvovirus flourish in hot weather and if you take your dogs to areas frequented by other dogs it is best to ensure that they are up-to-date on their vaccinations. While parvo is rarely fatal to health adult dogs it is extremely serious in puppies, seniors and those dogs with pre-existing health problems. The hot weather also stimulates rises in the flea population so be proactive and treat your dogs now.

7. For those of us without airconditioning it is important to keep the air moving, even when you're not at home. Make sure that you have a number of fans on before you leave (and when you're at home) that are set to keep the air moving in the places where your dog tends to relax. It will help them keep cool and provide some peace of mind while you're gone.

8. Double-check the screens on your windows. If you leave your windows open it is important to ensure that they have tight-fitting and secured screens on them. Dogs may try to find cooler areas to escape to and if you leave windows open and the outside air is preferable to the air inside your dog may try to escape.

9. Artificial sweat can keep you cool! While dogs don't sweat they can benefit from the effect of sweat and the easiest way to achieve this is to to use a spraybottle to mist them down. All of a sudden those fans you have set up around the house seem so much more effective! You can also give you dog a child's wading pool to cool off in but access should be limited to when you are present to surpervise. Remember, if the pool has been sitting out all day in the sun the water is likely to be quite warm so check it before you let your pup jump in, you may have to pour a little out and add some cold water to make it more comfortable.

10. Identifying heatstroke. According to Dr. Lila Miller, ASPCA Vice President of Veterinary Outreach, "symptoms of overheating in pets include excessive panting or difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, drooling, mild weakness, stupor or even collapse. They can also include seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomit along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees." If you observe these symptoms move your dog from the hot area immediately. Prior to maing the trip to your veterinarian, lower his temperature by wetting him thoroughly with cool water while increasing air movement with a fan. Using very cold water may be counterproductive. Cooling too quickly and especially allowing his body temperature to become too low can cause other life-threatening medical conditions. Once the body temperature is 103ºF, the cooling measures should be stopped and the dog should be dried and taken to the vet. Even if your dog appears to be recovering, take him to your veterinarian as soon as possible as he may be dehydrated or have other complications.

Averting a 4th of July Nightmare

We're just days away from celebrating Independence Day so it's time to go through your home safety checklist. First and foremost, know your dog! If you have brought a new greyhound (or any dog for that matter) home in the past year it is probably best to ensure that someone is going to be home to supervise their reaction to the inevitable fireworks and firecrackers that are going to be set off for the 4th of July.

Dr. Ilana Reisner at the University of Pennsylvania School fo Veterinary Medicine reports that:

Dogs can respond with profound fear to loud, booming noises such as thunder or fireworks. In fact, some dogs appear to develop a worsening fear over time that eventually is characterized as a phobia. Noise-phobic dogs can respond with extreme efforts to escape the noise. What starts as mild signs of distress, such as pacing, trembling and panting, can develop into chewing and digging at points of exit, particularly if the dogs are alone at home. It is not unusual for unsuspecting owners to come home to extraordinary destruction of doorways, windows and other routes of "escape" Dogs with severe noise phobias have even been known to chew through drywalls and jump through plate glass windows.

How can you tell if your dog is having an adverse reaction to fireworks? Generally you will see any of the following behaviors: panting, pacing, trembling, and clinginess.

Here are some recommendations for helping your dog to cope.

1. Do not take your dog out for any of the Independence Day festivities. Even if fireworks do not normally upset them the cumulative effect of the percussion of explosions, the crowds of people, the excited voices and exposure to new places can cause unforeseen dismay in your greyhound. It is best to leave them safely at home.
2. Close the doggie door! Generally speaking, we don't recommend doggie doors because you can't supervise your dog's time outside but we understand that they help many families and are a necessary evil. On days like the 4th of July you HAVE to close it. While your greyhound may not have shown you how easily they can escape from your yard the stess of the holiday may be the encouragement they need make their escape. Once in "flight" mode your 45 mile per hour cuddle pup will run and run and run until exhaustion.
3. If you already know that your dog is upset by fireworks make an appointment with your vet to discuss options. While we should all hesitate to medicate our pets unncessarily it is better that they are medicated and safe that paniked and injure themselves in the process.
4. Did you keep up on crate training when you brought your dog home? Great! Then set the crate up again tonight and start feeding them in it. A crate will provide you dog with a safe place in your home to retreat to if they get upset and should the noise and chaos cause a little incontinence at least it is contained in one area.
5. Separate your dogs! We all know that greyhounds are addictive so if you have a multi-dog household you should take measures to protect them from each other. Yes, I know they've lived together forever and have never had a problem before but perhaps you have some new neighbors or have moved to a new house. If there is something new this year that makes this 4th of July especially stressful you can not know how your dog will react. Their canine companion could startle them at precisely the wrong moment and get bitten out of fear. It happens so if you can't separate them break out the basket muzzles we sent home with you do that no one needs a trip to the emergency vet.
6. Check their collar and identification. Make sure that the collar is nice and snug so that if you dog somehow escapes they can be identifed and returned to you.

If you are planning on being home remember that in times to stress you should avoid the impulse to comfort your dog. Under these conditions comforting them only serves to reinforce the behavior. The best thing to do is to try to distract them and if that doesn't work then encourage them to find a safe place to hide. While we tend to believe it is best to confront our fears if your greyhounds chooses to hide at least you know where they will be and so long as they feel safe the will not get hurt. Sometimes music can help to distract your dog from the fireworks or at least reduce the impact they have on your dog.

Play it safe and happy 4th of July!

Time to hit the road

With the weather improving by leaps and bounds many will start thinking about taking their dogs on trips with them. Most will travel by car because it is convenient and allows for more frequent stops. There are many things to think about before taking a trip with your best friend.

1. Does your dog have much travel experience? Do they do well in the car or is it stressful for them? If you are unsure it is best to start with a few short rides to get them acclimated to being in the car, the sights and sounds and other stimulus so they are less likely to find travel upsetting. Dogs that pant or drool in the car will need more time to adjust and if you're on a tight schedule it may be best to find a boarding kennel rather than having a sick and stressed pup in the back seat.

2. Do you have a way to keep your dog from distracting you? Ideally, your dog should have some kind of restraint because the last thing you or anyone else on the road needs if a greyhound in your lap. A lapse in concentration could be fatal so find a way to keep your dog under control in the car.

3. Identification! Make sure that you have current identification on your dog. It is important every day but even more so when you are in an unfamiliar place. If you have had your dog microchipped, double check to ensure that all of your information is accurate before you leave town.

4. Think about where you are staying. If you're going to be stopping at a hotel ask if your dog is welcome, if they have a weight limit and what extra costs there are for bringing your best friend. There are lot of dog-friendly places to stay throughout the NW but you may have to do a little more research. For those who will be staying with friend or family, make sure that they don't mind if you leave a greyhound-shaped impression on their sofa. Do they have pets? Have your respective pets been introduced? It is likely that the travel will have cause some stress in your dog, DO NOT leave your dog unsupervised with your hosts pets. We all want to get settled in but nothing ruins a vacation more than a trip to the emergency vet.

5. Vaccination and veterinary care are important. While heartworm is still uncommon from Portland on north if you are traveling south you should put Fido on heartworm preventative. Heartworm is a nasty parasite and it can be expensive to treat (requires months of medication and restricted activity). Make sure vaccinations are current and keep a copy of their vaccination records with your travel documents, you may need them. It is also advisable to locate a regular and emergency vet at your destination. The last thing you want is to be in a strange place with a veterinary emergency and have no idea where to go.

6. Have you planned stops along the way? It is recommended that you stop every two hours to stretch your legs and let your dog have a little reprieve from the car. You may be able to push the time between stops but be mindful of your friend in the back seat. Also, beware of dog parks when you're travelling. We think dog parks are an accident waiting to happen under most circumstances but if you frequent one now chances are you see the same people and the same dogs but if you have a pup who is out-of-sorts because of the trip and a bunch of strange dogs trouble could be close at hand. Instead, consider just pulling off at a rest stop, most in Oregon and Washington are dog friendly and the facilities are well maintained.

7. Suds up you bud! You're going to be in a confined space so give your dog a bath before you leave.

8. Don't forget to pack for the dog too! They will need food, bedding, bowls, leashes, medication and a first-aid kit. Remember to bring water so that if there isn't a ready supply when you make your rest stops you can still get your dog hydrated.

9. Have fun and take pictures of your adventures with you greyhound so you can share them with us!

If you have any additional tips or trick that you want to share about traveling with your dog please feel free to email us! We would love to share your experiences with everyone!

Canine cooking

I'll be the first to admit that I'm not expert but I've been cooking for my greyhounds for the past two years. Their health is good, their coats are shiny and they are happy. When people find out I cook for my dogs they are either incredulous or they're interested so I thought I would share my recipe.

Keep in mind that this feeds two large male greyhounds for five days. One of them is prone to stress related weight loss so he literally eats twice as much as other dogs his size so assume this works for three dogs at 5 days each. One cup of home-made food is roughly equivalent to about half a cup of dry kibble so for my dogs I feed them the recommended amount for their weight and activity level in kibble less half a cup which I make up for with a full cup of homemade food.

Ingredients:
2 1/2 pounds of carrots
3 pounds of sweet potatoes
3 1/2 - 4 pounds of chicken (I buy thighs with bone in and skin on)
32 ounces of cottage cheese
16 ounces of frozen green beans
8 - 10 ounces of frozen brussel sprouts
powdered supplements

Step one: Cut the carrots into one inch pieces and boil for approximate an hour and fifteen minutes.

Step two: Cut the the sweet potatoes into two inch thick slices and add to the carrots. Add the chicken to the boiling water, cover and cook for thirty minutes.

Step three: Allow the carrots, sweet potatoes and chicken to cool. You can pour off some of the liquid to speed the cooling process but reserve three and a half cups for later use.

Step four: Take the three and a half cups of liquid and add to it your vitamin supplement, cottage cheese and frozen vegetables. Then shred the chicken while adding it to your vegetable/cottage cheese mixture. Add the remaining vegetables and mix thoroughly. The sweet potatoes will be soft and will probably fall apart.

Step five: Spoil your greyhounds.

The nutritional supplement I used is NuPro and it makes a kind of gravy when you add it to liquid.

Final disclaimer - I am not a veterinary nutritionist and while my dogs have thrived on this food it may not be suitable for all dogs.

Keep those teeth clean!

Dental care is an important part of your greyhound's overall health. According to the American Animal Hospital Association over sixty percent of pet owners fail to provide dental care considered essential by veterinarians. Proper dental care is so essential to your dog's heath that studies have found that dogs may experience depression because of failure to address this aspect of their well being.

American Veterinary Medical Association president James Cook, DVM says "Oral disease is the most frequently diagnosed health problem for pets. Twice-a-year checkups, including an oral health checkup, are important to ensure your pet is not in pain and is not suffering from serious oral health problems. Besides causing receding gums and tooth loss, bacteria in the mouth can enter the bloodstream, potentially infecting the heart, liver and kidneys, which can be potentially life threatening."

Making dental care part of your standard veterinary checkups is important to the long-term health of your greyhound. While in our care we monitor our adoptable greyhounds' oral health and have their teeth professionally cleaned before you take them home but it is up to you to ensure that they continue to get the care they need for a long healthy life.

Hot Pack Tip!

One of our volunteers shared a great tip she got from her vet with the rest of us and now we're sharing it with you.

Sam had a mass removed about 10 days ago (just a fat tissue) but swelling is now occurring as the fluids start to try to fill where the mass was.

My veterinarian told me to use a hot pack on it twice a day for 5 minutes each for about 5 days and this was her suggestion on what to use:

Take a cotton gym sock and put uncooked rice in it, knot it at the top and put it in the microwave for 40 to 50 seconds depending on how much rice you use, test it on your hand first then place a paper towel or thin soft cloth between the skin and the rice pack.

So I did this - I used a little over a cup of rice and it works great! The rice and sock come from the microwave just a little steamy and Sam just relaxes and closes his eyes while I am gently holding it against the swelling.

While I hope you never had need of a hot pack this is a fantastic idea for a cheap, easy and reusable alternative!

Happy New Year!

It's time to ring in the New Year! Be safe and if you have noise-sensitive dogs don't forget that some folks like to greet the New Year by blowing off their fingers with firecrackers and fireworks.

We look forward to seeing you all next year!

Icy conditions tip

Although it seems that the snow and ice has passed and the rain has returned we received a tip from the larger dog community. Due to the salt used to aid the melting of ice and snow it your dog's pads may become dry and uncomfortable. If you notice excessive licking of the paws give them a good rinse in luke-warm water and massage in a little bag balm or similar animal-safe moisturizer.

Thanks for the tip Debra!